Cold Algonquin Spring

I have just returned from a four day canoe trip in one of my favourite places in the world, Algonquin Park.

Spring is an interesting time to go. The weather can be extremely variable, especially in early spring, which is what we discovered on this trip. When we booked the trip, the long range forecast showed that it would be a comfortable temperature with sun and perhaps a little bit of cloud. As it got closer that changed. We arrived in the park to a light snow and a temperature of -5 degrees. Some might call us crazy, but we got into the canoe and off we went. This is our trip.

photo: (There is a thin layer of ice on the water directly in front of the canoe)


The two of us on this trip are myself and a friend that I used to work with, Tim. We arrived at Algonquin Park just after 10:00am. There was a light snow in the air and it was cold. Not to worry we would soon be warm from paddling the canoe, if we could first get it through the thin layer of ice between us and the creek.

This is a really nice part of the park to canoe. Our start point was right on the edge of Highway 60 just west of the main visitor centre. We put in into Sunday Creek. This is the same creek that flows through the Spruce Boardwalk Trail (which is in fact on the other side of the highway). Sunday Creek meanders through a marshy area on its way to Norway Lake. That part of the trip is not very long, maybe 30 - 40 minutes. There are a few beaver dams across the creek. They were all fairly easy to push the canoe over going downstream.

From Norway Lake we followed another small section of river to Fork Lake. This portion had a slightly larger beaver dam. We made it over going down but knew that it would require getting out on the way back.

Once on Fork Lake we looked for our campsite. We had a choice of two. One was on the north west shore and the other was on a small island. From a distance we could see that the island looked rather sparse as far as trees. This would make it difficult to find wood for the campfire. On the plus side, there would be more sun. We were closer to the site on the north west shore so we chose to take a closer look at that first. Up a steep bank was the site. There was not really any good place to put the tents and it was clear that this would be in shade from mid-afternoon on. There was, however a big pile of would left behind by whoever had that site before. That would be ours.

We paddled over to the island. It was very nice despite there being some snow on the ground in the shaded areas. This is where we would stay for the next four days. We unloaded, then took a trip back to the other site to claim the wood. The wood, we knew, would not be enough. Like I said, it was cold. If it got above zero that first day we were lucky, so we knew that we would be needing a fire to keep warm from evening into night. So the search was on for more wood.

photo: (snow on the ground as we arrived at the island)

We canoed to a couple of portage points in our search for wood. There were plenty of dead trees and branches so we made daily trips to collect wood. And boy did we need it.

photo: (Tim and wood in the canoe)

I should mention, that I had unfortunately caught a cold earlier in the week and was not completely over it. Now the cold weather wasn't helping. The night of April 27th the forecast said that the temperature dropped to -10 degrees. I believe it! We had a good fire going from late afternoon onwards just trying to keep warm.I took a rock from the fire to heat my tent. That really works well for a couple of hours.

photo: (a nice warm fire)

photo: (a hot rock sitting atop a cold rock in my tent)


So the first night was fine to start off. The hot rock made my tent warm and the two bottles I filled with hot water also kept me warm for a few hours. Then it got really cold. I have a mummy bag that I believe is rated to about -12 degrees. Not quite sure what that means. It certainly doesn't mean that you will be comfortable in -10 degrees. Perhaps it just means that you won't freeze to death, I don't know. I also will be getting rid of the mummy bag and getting a conventional bag. To keep warm, I had it completely done up, only my face showing out of the top. Now you can't really move inside a mummy bag and it is a little difficult to get out of. Anyway, at some point in the night, I think around 2am, I woke to a cough. I realized that I couldn't breath at all through my nose. Combine that with the cough and the constricted movement of the mummy bag, I suddenly felt extremely claustrophobic. I felt like I couldn't breath. It was not nice. Despite the cold, I got out of my sleeping bag, put on my shoes and went outside for a few minutes.

I highly recommend going outside when it is pitch dark in the deep of the night when the sky is clear. The stars are stunning. Hopefully, in most cases it will not be so cold.

photo: (from previous trip to Norway Lake)

I had had thoughts that night about never being warm again. I pictured four days with no reprieve from the cold. But the next day was a little warmer, and sitting in the sun, out of the wind brought the warmth back.

The great thing about canoeing to a site and staying there, rather than moving each night, is that you can just relax and enjoy nature. While we did have to get wood every day, we also got to explore a little. We followed one of the portage routes along a stream with rapids and a small waterfall.

photo: (waterfall)

And we were able to just sit back and watch the days go by.



The second day some other people arrived at the site on the northwest shore of the lake. We felt bad for a second that we had taken the pile of wood from there, but then we got over it. The second night, being a little warmer, I stayed up to take some photos.

photo: (starry sky and campfire at the other campsite)

photo: (moon veiled by thin clouds at night)

photo: (canoe in the moonlight)


Getting back to nature is amazing. It is a good experience to be at the mercy of weather. I mean really at its mercy, not just inconvenienced as you go to and from your warm home to work or shopping. Out there, we had to deal with unexpected cold and with wind. We had to find ways to stay warm. It literally could be deadly if we were not prepared. But we also had calm and comfortable moments. And all of it is beautiful.

As with every trip, you look forward to going home, but are sad to leave.

Watch as we make the one and a half hour canoe trip from our little island back to the highway in just under a minute.